We are moored at Longyearbyen, on the island of Spitsbergen in Svalbard. It feels a pretty remote place, 76’ degree North, with a rugged landscape. We were first off the ship this morning, with an 8am dogsled ride. As it’s summer the sled was substituted with a buggy, but the experience is essentially the same.

We were met off the ship by Marcel, a slightly intimidating tattooed gent from Slovakia. He quickly laid done the ground rules, which we instantly agreed to, and then harnessed the 13 dogs up.

Clyde’s a “little bit crazy”, pulls like 3 dogs, so is left single. When we are ready to go 6 handbrakes are released, and we shoot forward like a Porsche 911 on full gas. Marcel the guide still has brakes on, but the dogs want to run.

We soon stop for water, the dogs are panting like mad, but crazy, so nobody steps out. By the next water break things have calmed down, and we can give the dogs a cuddle ! if we want.

Marcel talks about his life, it’s not a job, and how he lives in a camp of 300 dogs, 28 of which are “his”. He is solely responsible for them, and it’s clear he loves them deeply. He doesn’t live in town because it’s too busy, and his tats suggest a very different life at one stage. He also shows a video of encountering a polar bear 2 weeks ago whilst on a tour….that’s why he carries a rifle.

It’s time to head home, my hands are freezing in the 3 degree wind. But first a couple of pats, H said Clyde was a solid dog, at first he ignored her but then leant in for cuddle. A big softie 😀

On the final leg we passed the industrial remains of the coal industry, all closed now apart from one Russian mine elsewhere on the island. After watering the dogs one final time Marcel drove us back to the ship. Leaving his dogs alone for 5 minutes was the most stressful part of the trip for him.

An unforgettable experience, as hopefully our fjord cruise this afternoon will be.