Yesterday was mainly occupied by a couple of lectures about Shackleton’s expeditions. Our lecturer, Natalie, has produced the documentary about the expedition that found his ship Endurance under the sea ice.

She focussed on how music had influenced the men, from the band in Argentina playing “It’s a long way to Tipperary” to the music the men were listening to just prior to the ship sinking.

A well presented lecture, from an unusual aspect. Her second lecture was about how she made her documentary. Unfortunately as it’s owned privately we were unable to photograph screenshots, but “Endurance” the film looks a great movie to catch on Disney or National Geographic streaming channels

During dinner the Captain announced our approach to the Ross Ice Shelf, but warned us temperatures outside with a wind chill factor would be around -20. It was extremely challenging to take pics, but a fantastic experience.

It’s approximately 500klm long and 950klm wide to the barren and rocky shoreline. Overwhelming really, and brings home just how tough the men were. To top things off a pod of Orcas swam past, with penguins sitting on icebergs.

The Sunset lasted all of 5 minutes before it rose again ! So sleeping can be a bit challenging.

This morning we are anchored at Cape Evans, opposite Mt Erebus. We are shortly due to take a Zodiac and visit Scott’s Hut.

It’s hard to believe we are actually here….I’ve loaded my film camera with black and white film and am channelling my Frank Hurley photographic style. See you later on ❄️❄️❄️❄️

After suiting up…..thermals top and bottom, shirt and waterproof trousers, thick sweater and neck warmer, 2 pairs of thick socks, polar parka and polar over trousers, 2 pairs of gloves, explorer boots, life jacket and camera backpack ! we waddled out to the Marina waiting for our Zodiac.

Luckily it was warm, at -3 plus a wind chill factor. Our Guide Mark explained it could be down to -16 here on some trips, with the boat spray freezing on the parkas.

It was a perfect evening for a cruise, a slight swell and short ride before entering the ice.

It was a serene, and surreal moment. Gently bobbing up and down as we threaded our way through the ice, gently pushing larger pieces away.

Le Soleal gradually disappeared, soon it was just us floating along as we spotted a seal and penguins in the distance.

After an hour we exited the ice to find Le Soleal in the distance. It’s amazing how fast the pack moves with wind and currents.

All too soon it was our time to disembark. A quick dash to the cabin with dinner at 9pm. Then a musical trivia quiz to 11:30 and bed at midnight along with the setting sun. Fortunately we didn’t have to get up with it….as it rose 40 minutes after setting ! An UNFORGETTABLE day, and just what we needed after 3 days at sea.

So yesterday I left you just after lunch with land sighted.

The Captain was worried about the rate the ice was moving, despite it being a calm day. We were unlikely to get a Zodiac landing because of the time it would take, but pushed on to see what options were available.

The closer we got the more impressive, and colder it seemed. To get closer we pushed thru some brash, and larger growler, ice.

We went fairly slowly, pushing the larger growlers away with crashes and bangs. After an hour or so we were through to clear water around Fohn Island, part of Possession Island

Our temporary mooring spot, no anchor was dropped, had a large Adelie penguin rookery nearby.

Several icebergs had floated past when the Captain informed us that a Zodiac Ice adventure was being organised. No time for dinner, Red B are up first. Time to scramble below and suit up. To be continued !

This morning there was a profusion of birds wheeling around the stern of the ship. Gone are the Albatross, largely replaced by Petrals (snow and antartic)

During lunch the Captain announced the sighting of the White Continent, very exciting after 4 days at sea.

Possession Islands

We are listening to a lecture at present, shortly the Expedition Zodiacs will be launched and we hope to be onshore this afternoon / evening. Part 2 to be done later, weather permitting.

Tracking our position on Dads old map we could see our heading for Cape Adare, which has a couple of early explorers huts there and a massive Penguin colony. Ponant hasn’t been able to visit here for the last 2 years due to the ice and wind, but all indications were good last night with a lot of crossed fingers.

The Camera Lens Blower shows where we are heading, Cape Adare. The other plots are a trip my father did to Mawsons Hut.

Dad had plotted an iceberg in our current area, and sure enough..

There are a few eyes on lookout in the bridge, along with a lot of sophisticated equipment. Le Soleal has an open bridge policy, it’s only closed when in port operations or the Captain wants peace !

Patricia from the Antarctic Heritage Trust gave an informative talk this morning about the trusts aims, and info about the huts at Cape Adare.

Penguins could give site access problems…

Unfortunately the swell is up again, we’ve had to reduce speed and steer around the ice ahead, this increases the chance of more ice moving and stopping us from landing. But we are thinking positively, and have a bio contamination inspection slated for later on, which will ensure we’re ready to roll …..ice and light permitting.

UPDATE – Late afternoon info by Captain and Expedition Leader – Ice forming around Cape Adare with a big storm due on Sunday. Will hopefully visit Possession Island, south of Cape Adare this afternoon, evening then run further south to Scott Hut to avoid the weather. But we will see Continental Ice Shelf today, and hopefully get a run in the Zodiacs.

After yesterday’s afternoon soaking the Captains Gala Cocktail Evening was extremely enjoyable. One of the best big group prepared meals I’ve ever had. The Beef Wellington fillet was melt in the mouth, as were the lobster tails, delicious desert and French Champagne….as you can see we cleared the table with some new Kiwi friends.

This morning an entertaining lecture about birding resulted in a rush to the back deck as we all tried our hand. It’s not something I usually photograph, but was pleased with the results. Mind you the keep rate was not good, about 20 out of 400 !

By now the swell was starting to really build, and it was exhilarating to stand at the stern as we surfed over 5 meter swells.

It’s also down to 7 degrees, though it’s only a couple a few steps through to the lounge and all of its delights. Strawberry Pav for 2

There was a bit of rock and roll going on last night, not the musical kind, with overcast skies for our arrival at Enderby Island, part of the sub Antarctic Islands.

Zodiac scouts

Immediately several zodiacs went out to recee the landing area, chosen between 2 bull elephant seal harems and a group of yellow eyed penguins. The first groups were away shortly, with our group due to depart late morning.

Whilst having a coffee in the forward observation lounge the weather started deteriorating, strong squalls and reduced visibility didn’t bode well. We were also informed that due to a wildlife encounter, a bull seal had charged an expedition leader, our departure was further delayed.

So it was with considerable surprise that we were loaded aboard later. Instantly everything was soaked, with standing water in the bottom of the boat and a lot of spray coming in. Our driver did an excellent job considering the conditions, but you certainly needed to hang on as it skipped from wave to wave.

It was a hard slog getting out of the beach area and H struggled with a backpack and poles. I took the pack so she could concentrate on walking against the gusty strong winds and driving rain. My beanie was soaked, parka hood blown off and glasses streaming. This was going to be challenging to walk, even more to photograph.

The flora was stunning, with the mega herbs in flower, and albatrosses wheeling across the sky. The boardwalk emerged the other side of the island on cliffs with the ocean pounding below them. Fortunately there was a seat, it was virtually impossible to stand up, even our guide was blown off his feet whilst talking.

The trek back was slightly easier and another guide behind us gave H as much time and encouragement she needed. She also deterred a seal with her backpack when it decided to check us out, and followed us all the way back to the beach with her holding it off.

Thankfully the trip back in the Zodiac wasn’t quite so wild, but the cabin is full of soggy clothing. However we’re getting all dressed up again ……. for the Captains cocktail party, hopefully it won’t be as wet !

We had a 3m swell last night, just enough to rock me to sleep. It’s been gradually increasing and we have a good rock and roll going on now ! The day has been spent preparing for our adventures. First a briefing by the Captain explaining how he was going to do his best, but be flexible….

Then onto the Zodiac briefing where we met the 15 exploration leaders, all young and well qualified in a variety of scientific fields. After a brief lunch break we selected our boots, had all our gear examined and decontaminated, then finally got our parkas (which we get to keep). A slight curve ball with mine….size S in size M packaging….but all quickly sorted.

We met a couple from Melbourne for lunch and will catch up over dinner as well. Everybody seems friendly enough, and we’ve met some interesting people, including a young woman from NZ who is responsible for the management of Scott’s hut.

At breakfast this morning I checked over the paperwork and noticed that we leave from Dunedin, not Port Chalmers where the cruise ship had berthed yesterday ! As it was raining our hosts suggested a run into Dunedin to a. Check Le Soleal was in port, and b. Visit the Otago Museum

There was maritime section within the museum, I found a poster displaying the 6 types of boat motion which I gleefully pointed out to H. Hopefully we won’t experience them all at the same time ! Le Soleal was in port, always a bonus when cruising.

We are shortly due to drive back to town and embark, so will finish the blog once we’ve set sail.

Waking up at Steve and Lisa’s this morning we’re treated to a beautiful view over pasture, rolling hills, water and mountain ranges. An idyllic setting guys ❤️

We proceeded to Dunedin via Port Chalmers, where we will join Le Soleal tomorrow. Today a Holland America cruise ship was in.

Then onto Dunedin where our hosts had thoughtfully arranged a veteran car rally start for us to watch.

After replacing my “lost” camera film, actually it’s being forwarded, we headed around the bay stopping at a little cafe for lunch, then the Royal Albatross Sanctuary at Taiaroa Head.

A wonderful day with good company and excellent tour guides !