There was a bit of rock and roll going on last night, not the musical kind, with overcast skies for our arrival at Enderby Island, part of the sub Antarctic Islands.

Zodiac scouts

Immediately several zodiacs went out to recee the landing area, chosen between 2 bull elephant seal harems and a group of yellow eyed penguins. The first groups were away shortly, with our group due to depart late morning.

Whilst having a coffee in the forward observation lounge the weather started deteriorating, strong squalls and reduced visibility didn’t bode well. We were also informed that due to a wildlife encounter, a bull seal had charged an expedition leader, our departure was further delayed.

So it was with considerable surprise that we were loaded aboard later. Instantly everything was soaked, with standing water in the bottom of the boat and a lot of spray coming in. Our driver did an excellent job considering the conditions, but you certainly needed to hang on as it skipped from wave to wave.

It was a hard slog getting out of the beach area and H struggled with a backpack and poles. I took the pack so she could concentrate on walking against the gusty strong winds and driving rain. My beanie was soaked, parka hood blown off and glasses streaming. This was going to be challenging to walk, even more to photograph.

The flora was stunning, with the mega herbs in flower, and albatrosses wheeling across the sky. The boardwalk emerged the other side of the island on cliffs with the ocean pounding below them. Fortunately there was a seat, it was virtually impossible to stand up, even our guide was blown off his feet whilst talking.

The trek back was slightly easier and another guide behind us gave H as much time and encouragement she needed. She also deterred a seal with her backpack when it decided to check us out, and followed us all the way back to the beach with her holding it off.

Thankfully the trip back in the Zodiac wasn’t quite so wild, but the cabin is full of soggy clothing. However we’re getting all dressed up again ……. for the Captains cocktail party, hopefully it won’t be as wet !

We had a 3m swell last night, just enough to rock me to sleep. It’s been gradually increasing and we have a good rock and roll going on now ! The day has been spent preparing for our adventures. First a briefing by the Captain explaining how he was going to do his best, but be flexible….

Then onto the Zodiac briefing where we met the 15 exploration leaders, all young and well qualified in a variety of scientific fields. After a brief lunch break we selected our boots, had all our gear examined and decontaminated, then finally got our parkas (which we get to keep). A slight curve ball with mine….size S in size M packaging….but all quickly sorted.

We met a couple from Melbourne for lunch and will catch up over dinner as well. Everybody seems friendly enough, and we’ve met some interesting people, including a young woman from NZ who is responsible for the management of Scott’s hut.

At breakfast this morning I checked over the paperwork and noticed that we leave from Dunedin, not Port Chalmers where the cruise ship had berthed yesterday ! As it was raining our hosts suggested a run into Dunedin to a. Check Le Soleal was in port, and b. Visit the Otago Museum

There was maritime section within the museum, I found a poster displaying the 6 types of boat motion which I gleefully pointed out to H. Hopefully we won’t experience them all at the same time ! Le Soleal was in port, always a bonus when cruising.

We are shortly due to drive back to town and embark, so will finish the blog once we’ve set sail.

Waking up at Steve and Lisa’s this morning we’re treated to a beautiful view over pasture, rolling hills, water and mountain ranges. An idyllic setting guys ❤️

We proceeded to Dunedin via Port Chalmers, where we will join Le Soleal tomorrow. Today a Holland America cruise ship was in.

Then onto Dunedin where our hosts had thoughtfully arranged a veteran car rally start for us to watch.

After replacing my “lost” camera film, actually it’s being forwarded, we headed around the bay stopping at a little cafe for lunch, then the Royal Albatross Sanctuary at Taiaroa Head.

A wonderful day with good company and excellent tour guides !

After storing our bags at the hotel for our late afternoon flight we crossed over the street into another world at the Weta Workshop. This is a special effects company, made famous for their work on the “Lord of the Rings” The shop alone was mind boggling….

The tour was divided into the 3 film types, horror, fantasy and science fiction. The horror section was guarded by Jeff, a full sized animatronic orc, but civilized….sort of !

Here you could practice make up, wield swords and learn how to make all types of props. H had a horror makeover, I just lost my head.…

We then moved onto fantasy, thru a workroom with the storyteller fast asleep at the table in front of his model.

Thru the next area was identical, but 9 times bigger !

The model was now huge, and you could really see how movies were filmed as you walked around “inside” it. Fantastic….we really enjoyed this set.

The final area was a film set of a science fiction film with a giant robot, over 10 metres high, capable of moving and lighting up.

It was time to say goodbye to our friend the orc, and head somewhere much scarier…..Auckland Airport !

But our flight went well, and we were met by our local friends who pet sat Cooper and Rosie last year. It was good to catch up and we’ve been spoilt with dinner and wifi ! Dunedin looks wonderful, exploring tomorrow and replacing some camera film I left in the hotels fridge….if that’s the only thing to go wrong….

After making sure Cooper and Rosie had settled in with our house sitter Joy, which took all of 5 minutes ! it was time to travel.

Tasmania looked stunning from air, but it’s always good to see new places. We will reach Antartica via Sydney, Auckland and Dunedin (all by air), then the Ross Ice Shelf by boat. No travel to South America required, one of the reasons we chose Ponant.

Qantas looked after us well, but Sydney was hot during the terminal transfer, and we got into our Auckland hotel just before midnight feeling pretty shattered. H was sore all over, stubbing her toe the night before hadn’t helped either. A nights sleep and lie in did though, but we were slow off the mark first thing.

What better way to start off the holiday by buying some local possum, merino and silk wool for the holidays knitting project ! Then onto the hop on, hop off bus to see some local sights.

Forgoing the generic, expensive shopping strip we settled on the Museum, and in particular the Māori Court with fantastic wood carving. This varied in size from intricately carved Tiki’s to canoe’s and meeting halls.

It was also a short walk to some very traditionally planted glasshouses, with ferns imaginatively planted in a ravine.

The bus took us around a loop with expansive views across the water and cityscape.

We decided to head “home”, easy to see with it being beside the sky tower and rapid rope descenders…..something for tomorrow perhaps….or will the flight to Dunedin be just as exciting !

Tasotter and H will shortly start another boating adventure, but this time swapping Prime Thyme for Le Soleal. Regular followers will recognise the name from a previous cruise around New Zealand, but this time we will be heading south to visit some Subantarctic Islands and the Ross Ice Shelf. As it’s an expedition cruise the zodiacs will take us ashore, and hopefully inspect Scott and Shackleton’s hut. All of this is very weather, ice and Captain permitting though….so fingers crossed. 🤞

We will have a couple of days first in Auckland, then Dunedin staying with last years pet sitters Steve and Lisa, who Cooper and Rosie still love. As usual I’m agonising of the choice of cameras, the harsh conditions, currently -16 degrees, make selection difficult. I’ll need a long telephoto for distant wildlife, wide angle for sweeping panorama’s and I’d like to shoot some film ! More on this later on….I’ve still got a few hours to finalise my thoughts !

We are safely ensconced in the Qantas Club at Heathrow. I’m still in shock at the size of their showers ! Double Nautica’s size and huge cf Prime Thymes….

Hopefully there will be a time to photograph the orchids usually on display at Singapore Airport.

We are sitting in the Aer Lingus lounge at Dublin Airport reflecting upon our last 7 weeks, but first a quick recap on yesterday. Liverpool’s water front and dock areas is truly impressive, with some 38 miles of wharfage.

In the afternoon we took a tour of Port Sunlight, a village built for his workers by William Lever of soap manufacturing fame, and the Lady Lever Art Gallery. This is an outstanding collection of art, furniture and ceramics.

As you can see the collection was stunning, with 8000 pieces on display and another 20000 in reserve. Our last shore excursion concluded with an afternoon tea at a local farm. We finished our cruise on a high, having really enjoyed the itinerary and friendship of fellow travellers. The only downside is of course the travelling to the other side of the world. However we have signed up to 2 big trips next year with an expedition cruise to the Antartica, and a river cruise from Amsterdam to Bucharest. Till then Tas Otter will keep virtual cruising.

Our last day on the cruise was a cracker, but the blog will have to wait till tomorrow as we’ve had to pack tonight and both have colds to improve the flight home…..not. Suffice to say Liverpool didn’t disappoint and we met 4 lovely lads ! I’ll update tomorrow during our numerous transit periods of Dublin-Heathrow-Singapore-Melbourne-Launceston…..some 36 plus hours 😳