So yesterday I left you just after lunch with land sighted.

The Captain was worried about the rate the ice was moving, despite it being a calm day. We were unlikely to get a Zodiac landing because of the time it would take, but pushed on to see what options were available.

The closer we got the more impressive, and colder it seemed. To get closer we pushed thru some brash, and larger growler, ice.

We went fairly slowly, pushing the larger growlers away with crashes and bangs. After an hour or so we were through to clear water around Fohn Island, part of Possession Island

Our temporary mooring spot, no anchor was dropped, had a large Adelie penguin rookery nearby.

Several icebergs had floated past when the Captain informed us that a Zodiac Ice adventure was being organised. No time for dinner, Red B are up first. Time to scramble below and suit up. To be continued !

This morning there was a profusion of birds wheeling around the stern of the ship. Gone are the Albatross, largely replaced by Petrals (snow and antartic)

During lunch the Captain announced the sighting of the White Continent, very exciting after 4 days at sea.

Possession Islands

We are listening to a lecture at present, shortly the Expedition Zodiacs will be launched and we hope to be onshore this afternoon / evening. Part 2 to be done later, weather permitting.

Tracking our position on Dads old map we could see our heading for Cape Adare, which has a couple of early explorers huts there and a massive Penguin colony. Ponant hasn’t been able to visit here for the last 2 years due to the ice and wind, but all indications were good last night with a lot of crossed fingers.

The Camera Lens Blower shows where we are heading, Cape Adare. The other plots are a trip my father did to Mawsons Hut.

Dad had plotted an iceberg in our current area, and sure enough..

There are a few eyes on lookout in the bridge, along with a lot of sophisticated equipment. Le Soleal has an open bridge policy, it’s only closed when in port operations or the Captain wants peace !

Patricia from the Antarctic Heritage Trust gave an informative talk this morning about the trusts aims, and info about the huts at Cape Adare.

Penguins could give site access problems…

Unfortunately the swell is up again, we’ve had to reduce speed and steer around the ice ahead, this increases the chance of more ice moving and stopping us from landing. But we are thinking positively, and have a bio contamination inspection slated for later on, which will ensure we’re ready to roll …..ice and light permitting.

UPDATE – Late afternoon info by Captain and Expedition Leader – Ice forming around Cape Adare with a big storm due on Sunday. Will hopefully visit Possession Island, south of Cape Adare this afternoon, evening then run further south to Scott Hut to avoid the weather. But we will see Continental Ice Shelf today, and hopefully get a run in the Zodiacs.

After yesterday’s afternoon soaking the Captains Gala Cocktail Evening was extremely enjoyable. One of the best big group prepared meals I’ve ever had. The Beef Wellington fillet was melt in the mouth, as were the lobster tails, delicious desert and French Champagne….as you can see we cleared the table with some new Kiwi friends.

This morning an entertaining lecture about birding resulted in a rush to the back deck as we all tried our hand. It’s not something I usually photograph, but was pleased with the results. Mind you the keep rate was not good, about 20 out of 400 !

By now the swell was starting to really build, and it was exhilarating to stand at the stern as we surfed over 5 meter swells.

It’s also down to 7 degrees, though it’s only a couple a few steps through to the lounge and all of its delights. Strawberry Pav for 2

There was a bit of rock and roll going on last night, not the musical kind, with overcast skies for our arrival at Enderby Island, part of the sub Antarctic Islands.

Zodiac scouts

Immediately several zodiacs went out to recee the landing area, chosen between 2 bull elephant seal harems and a group of yellow eyed penguins. The first groups were away shortly, with our group due to depart late morning.

Whilst having a coffee in the forward observation lounge the weather started deteriorating, strong squalls and reduced visibility didn’t bode well. We were also informed that due to a wildlife encounter, a bull seal had charged an expedition leader, our departure was further delayed.

So it was with considerable surprise that we were loaded aboard later. Instantly everything was soaked, with standing water in the bottom of the boat and a lot of spray coming in. Our driver did an excellent job considering the conditions, but you certainly needed to hang on as it skipped from wave to wave.

It was a hard slog getting out of the beach area and H struggled with a backpack and poles. I took the pack so she could concentrate on walking against the gusty strong winds and driving rain. My beanie was soaked, parka hood blown off and glasses streaming. This was going to be challenging to walk, even more to photograph.

The flora was stunning, with the mega herbs in flower, and albatrosses wheeling across the sky. The boardwalk emerged the other side of the island on cliffs with the ocean pounding below them. Fortunately there was a seat, it was virtually impossible to stand up, even our guide was blown off his feet whilst talking.

The trek back was slightly easier and another guide behind us gave H as much time and encouragement she needed. She also deterred a seal with her backpack when it decided to check us out, and followed us all the way back to the beach with her holding it off.

Thankfully the trip back in the Zodiac wasn’t quite so wild, but the cabin is full of soggy clothing. However we’re getting all dressed up again ……. for the Captains cocktail party, hopefully it won’t be as wet !

We had a 3m swell last night, just enough to rock me to sleep. It’s been gradually increasing and we have a good rock and roll going on now ! The day has been spent preparing for our adventures. First a briefing by the Captain explaining how he was going to do his best, but be flexible….

Then onto the Zodiac briefing where we met the 15 exploration leaders, all young and well qualified in a variety of scientific fields. After a brief lunch break we selected our boots, had all our gear examined and decontaminated, then finally got our parkas (which we get to keep). A slight curve ball with mine….size S in size M packaging….but all quickly sorted.

We met a couple from Melbourne for lunch and will catch up over dinner as well. Everybody seems friendly enough, and we’ve met some interesting people, including a young woman from NZ who is responsible for the management of Scott’s hut.

At breakfast this morning I checked over the paperwork and noticed that we leave from Dunedin, not Port Chalmers where the cruise ship had berthed yesterday ! As it was raining our hosts suggested a run into Dunedin to a. Check Le Soleal was in port, and b. Visit the Otago Museum

There was maritime section within the museum, I found a poster displaying the 6 types of boat motion which I gleefully pointed out to H. Hopefully we won’t experience them all at the same time ! Le Soleal was in port, always a bonus when cruising.

We are shortly due to drive back to town and embark, so will finish the blog once we’ve set sail.

Waking up at Steve and Lisa’s this morning we’re treated to a beautiful view over pasture, rolling hills, water and mountain ranges. An idyllic setting guys ❤️

We proceeded to Dunedin via Port Chalmers, where we will join Le Soleal tomorrow. Today a Holland America cruise ship was in.

Then onto Dunedin where our hosts had thoughtfully arranged a veteran car rally start for us to watch.

After replacing my “lost” camera film, actually it’s being forwarded, we headed around the bay stopping at a little cafe for lunch, then the Royal Albatross Sanctuary at Taiaroa Head.

A wonderful day with good company and excellent tour guides !

After storing our bags at the hotel for our late afternoon flight we crossed over the street into another world at the Weta Workshop. This is a special effects company, made famous for their work on the “Lord of the Rings” The shop alone was mind boggling….

The tour was divided into the 3 film types, horror, fantasy and science fiction. The horror section was guarded by Jeff, a full sized animatronic orc, but civilized….sort of !

Here you could practice make up, wield swords and learn how to make all types of props. H had a horror makeover, I just lost my head.…

We then moved onto fantasy, thru a workroom with the storyteller fast asleep at the table in front of his model.

Thru the next area was identical, but 9 times bigger !

The model was now huge, and you could really see how movies were filmed as you walked around “inside” it. Fantastic….we really enjoyed this set.

The final area was a film set of a science fiction film with a giant robot, over 10 metres high, capable of moving and lighting up.

It was time to say goodbye to our friend the orc, and head somewhere much scarier…..Auckland Airport !

But our flight went well, and we were met by our local friends who pet sat Cooper and Rosie last year. It was good to catch up and we’ve been spoilt with dinner and wifi ! Dunedin looks wonderful, exploring tomorrow and replacing some camera film I left in the hotels fridge….if that’s the only thing to go wrong….

After making sure Cooper and Rosie had settled in with our house sitter Joy, which took all of 5 minutes ! it was time to travel.

Tasmania looked stunning from air, but it’s always good to see new places. We will reach Antartica via Sydney, Auckland and Dunedin (all by air), then the Ross Ice Shelf by boat. No travel to South America required, one of the reasons we chose Ponant.

Qantas looked after us well, but Sydney was hot during the terminal transfer, and we got into our Auckland hotel just before midnight feeling pretty shattered. H was sore all over, stubbing her toe the night before hadn’t helped either. A nights sleep and lie in did though, but we were slow off the mark first thing.

What better way to start off the holiday by buying some local possum, merino and silk wool for the holidays knitting project ! Then onto the hop on, hop off bus to see some local sights.

Forgoing the generic, expensive shopping strip we settled on the Museum, and in particular the Māori Court with fantastic wood carving. This varied in size from intricately carved Tiki’s to canoe’s and meeting halls.

It was also a short walk to some very traditionally planted glasshouses, with ferns imaginatively planted in a ravine.

The bus took us around a loop with expansive views across the water and cityscape.

We decided to head “home”, easy to see with it being beside the sky tower and rapid rope descenders…..something for tomorrow perhaps….or will the flight to Dunedin be just as exciting !